2015 Müller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spätlese Im Breumel

As I mentioned in connection with the 2014, it’s nice to see this estate offering a Spätlese under the same geographically narrow “Grosse Lage” site designation as the corresponding Grosses Gewächs – a way of calling attention to the fact that a residually sweet Spätlese can be as profoundly evocative of place as a dry, full-bodied wine. (That this calls for renewed demonstration, though, is a measure of how much Riesling wisdom has been willfully unlearned in the last couple of decades.) “We left those bunches that exhibited a bit of botrytis to hang for another week after harvesting the Grosses Gewächs,” explained Franzen, and the resulting harvest was further sorted to make possible a separate Auslese. A colorful and decadently ripe amalgam of muskmelon, mango, peach, sweet lime and lychee delivers a heady, aromatic, lush palate performance. The feel here is flatteringly creamy and buoyant (at 9.5 percent alcohol), finishing with soothing persistence and a welcome influx of downright refreshing primary juiciness and mouthwatering salinity. It’s certainly unapologetically sweet, but the sweetness suits its decadent personality and supports its luscious fruit.