2008 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Volnay Santenots du Milieu 1er Cru

Looks much older than the 2010. Ruby. Lighter, more briary, less obviously fruity than the 2010 on the nose, with a hint of oak. Quite a bit of acidity but well matched by fresh, correct fruit. Solid, still slightly chewy. Needs a bit more time, ideally. Long-term wine. (JR)

Tasted blind, the 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots-du-Milieu offers up a deep bouquet of red-black cherries, spices, potpourri, espresso roast and subtle grilled meat. Full-bodied, ample and sappy on the palate, it's rich but vibrant, with fine-grained structuring tannins that are beginning to assert themselves on the finish. Having drunk several bottles of this wine since release, the extent to which it's shutting down is clearly apparent, and at this stage, patience will be required. (WK) 93+

Bright medium ruby-red. Purple fruits, licorice and violet on the nose; a bit darker and less plummy than the Champans. Then wonderfully sweet, seamless and mouthfilling, offering captivating inner-mouth perfume and outstanding pliancy for a wine with a pH of 3.35. Tightens up a bit on the back end, finishing with serious but suave, harmonious tannins and subtle rising length. This wine is a good bet to go on in bottle for two decades. (ST)