2006 Terre Nere La Vigna di Don Peppino Prephylloxera

As the name implies, the 2006 Prephylloxera Le Vigne di Don Peppino is made from pre-phylloxera vines. The wine seems to bring together all of the elements of the previous wines. Sweet, perfumed aromatics meld into an explosive palate of dark fruit intermingled with scents of tar, black cherries, toasted oak and minerals. This impressive old-vine Nerello Mascalese possesses striking depth and clarity in a sumptuous, full-bodied style. Simply put, this incredible wine is one of the finest reds being made in Sicily today. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2022. This lineup from Tenuta delle Terre Nere is one of the most impressive I tasted. Brothers Marc and Iano De Grazia seem to be hitting their stride with these new releases. The wines show great balance and tons of expressiveness, something that is enhanced by an enlightened use of French oak. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

This is the pre-phylloxera plot whose wine has not before been bottled separately. (I dread to think what the price will be. It used to go into the general Calderara Sottana bottling.) Very deep crimson with great volume yet freshness, even though it is almost 16% alcohol. It positively dances with life. Very noble and mineral but glows with life – reminds me a bit of Aglianico in the sense that the inherent quality shines out. Extremely complete. Just put into 3,000 bottles. (JR)