2002 Philipponnat Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé

I was quite surprised with the 2002 Brut Rose Clos des Goisses Juste, as it is quite delicate for the year and also much more feminine than the blanc. In my view, the 2002 is a bit too fleeting, despite its considerable finesse and undeniably attractive, cashmere-like finish. The 2002 Juste Rose is essentially the Clos des Goisses blanc with the addition of 6% still red wine. As mentioned in my introductory comments, I feel quite strongly this could be a much better Champagne if conceived as a stand alone wine rather than as a derivate of Clos des Goisses. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. I tasted a wide range of fabulous wines with Charles Philipponnat this year. Over the years, the knock on Philipponnat was that few of the entry and mid-level wines were consistent in quality with the flagship Clos des Goisses, one of the true icons of Champagne. I find that much less of an issue these days. One criticism I do have with Philipponnat is with the roses, which generally are made by adding still red wine to the blanc versions of those same Champagnes. While this method, called ‘assemblage,’ is quite common in Champagne, it is much less typical of estates that aspire to make world-class Champagnes, as Philipponnat does. At most of the top houses, the roses are made as stand alone wines, in other words, conceived and executed from the bottom up as their own entities rather than based off another wine. Importers: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484; Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

(65% pinot noir and 35% chardonnay; disgorged June, 2011): Vivid yellow. Explosive, complex scents of fresh and dried citrus fruits, pear skin, hazelnut and jasmine, with subtle smokiness and an intense mineral overlay. Projects a superb blend of richness and vivacity, showing with excellent clarity to its ripe citrus fruit and floral flavors. Aeration brings up deeper pear and melon qualities but the firm spine of acidity helps the wine maintain focus. Finishes with noteworthy length and clarity, leaving floral and spice notes behind. This Champagne really deserves at least another decade of bottle age.