2008 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre

Lafon's 2008 Meursault Clos de la Barre is fully mature and drinking quite well today, offering up aromas of buttered orchard fruit, citrus oil, toasty oak and hints of exotic fruits that emerge with time in the glass. Medium to full-bodied, it's delicately textural, with a pretty core of fruit, tangy acids that are a touch assertive and a penetrating, sulfate-inflected finish.

The 2008 Meursault Clos de la Barre from Domaine des Comtes Lafon has an attractive bouquet with touches of brown spice, mandarin and dried honey scents that are well defined, albeit seem fully mature. The palate is well balanced with orange peel and citrus notes, although I feel that it does not quite deliver the complexity of other Village Cru 2008s from the likes of Patrick Javillier or Fichet. Fine, but I would drink in the near future. Tasted at Sarah Marsh's 2008 White Burgundy tasting.

Relatively deep gold. On the nose, an impression of age rather than evolution. And, funnily enough, even a suggestion of matchstick!! Lively with masses of crunchy texture and acidity. One of the grainiest wines with considerable acidity and freshness even if not great subtlety. (JR)