2009 Torrin Akasha

Gorgeous aromatic intensity, superb richness and an exotic, full-bodied personality define the 2009 Akasha. This is the most structured of Torrin's 2009s. Hints of mint, violets, spices and licorice flesh out on a finish supported by firm yet well-integrated tannins. The 2009 is 95% Syrah and 5% Grenache, 85% Torrin Vineyard and 15% James Berry Vineyard, partially fermented with whole clusters.

Gorgeous aromatic intensity, superb richness and an exotic, full-bodied personality define the 2009 Akasha. This is the most structured of Torrin’s 2009s. Hints of mint, violets and spices flesh out on a finish supported by firm yet well-integrated tannins. The 2009 is 95% Syrah and 5% Grenache, 85% Torrin Vineyard and 15% James Berry Vineyard, partially fermented with whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Torrin is a small, emerging property that was essentially carved out of the Booker Vineyard. Proprietor Scott Hawley embodies all of the passion and enthusiasm shared by Paso’s young winemakers. Hawley describes 2010 and 2011 as the coldest years he has seen. The 2010s were brought in just before the rains in late October. The Torrin wines are on the richer, bolder side for Paso Robles. Hawley likes to pick fairly late and ripe. The wines are made with native yeasts and treated fairly minimally in the cellar. At times, the alcohol comes through, which blurs varietal notes and the signatures of this site. Still, my sense is that Torrin is one of the Paso wineries with the most unrealized potential. The sky is the limit. Tel. (805) 550-2058; www.torrinwine.com

(95% syrah and 5% grenache; this is the first vintage for this bottling that isn't 100% syrah): Glass-staining purple. Powerful aromas of black raspberry and cassis, with complicating notes of smoked meat, candied lavender and minerals. Deeply pitched, velvety and assertively flavored, with a deep dark berry preserve character enlivened by a strong kick of cracked pepper on the back. Turns spicier on the finish, leaving behind floral pastille, spicecake and licorice notes. This potent wine has the energy of pinot noir.