1985 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste

Burly wine. Deep and dark-colored with an iron backbone of tannins. Plenty of licorice and fruit character. Needs time to come into harmony. Better after 1998.--The Bordeaux 50. James Suckling, Wine Spectator 1994.

The 1985 has reached full maturity quickly. It is an excellent, nearly outstanding example of a juicy, succulent Pauillac oozing with sweet cedar, herb-tinged, black currant fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with low acidity, and a supple, nearly opulent texture, this wine is intensely charming and delicious. The only negative is the wine's short finish, which suggests it needs to be consumed over the next decade. Anticipated maturity: Now-2004. Last tasted 10/97 Jan 1998, www.robertparker.com

The 1985 Grand Puy Lacoste, which was vinified in epoxy-lined concrete vats, was tasted at the château with Emeline Borie. Borie remarked that it evinced a more rustic approach at the estate, and to honest, it did not impress. A week later, I took my own bottle that I had acquired via a West Country merchant to dinner with a friend...this was far superior! It displayed far less rusticity on the nose with ample redcurrant and raspberry fruit, sage, sandalwood and melted asphalt. The palate is quite weighty with perhaps uncouth tannins, but there is a fine line of acidity and much more fruit purity towards the finish, which displays the vintage's signature velvety texture. Not complex per se, but utterly delicious. My score is based on this bottle instead of the one at the château.