1997 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon Bosche Vineyard

(13.9% alcohol; tasted from a magnum): Full, dark red. Sexy, rather claret-like aromas of plum, currant, blackberry, leather, spices and dusty stone show freshness and complexity, as well as a hint of wildness. Wonderfully savory, plush wine with a firm mineral spine giving shape to its very dark berry flavors. The slowly building finish really stains the palate and lingers. Not yet completely open--in fact, there's something still a bit youthfully tough here despite the lovely sweetness--but then this is a magnum. Aeration brought a more pliant back end, but this big mouthful of red wine is still evolving. The tannins mount.