1991 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Allen Vineyard

(13.1% alcohol; vinified with one-third whole clusters, like the '90): Medium reddish-amber color. Reticent aromas of strawberry, orange rind, clove and allspice, complicated by an element of musky underbrush and a whiff of dried flowers. Fairly big, rich and lush; the most layered wine to this point, with nicely integrated acidity giving the fine-grained middle palate a sappy quality. Also sweeter and better balanced than the '90 version, although the tannins are a bit more apparent.