1989 Domaine Georges Roumier Musigny Grand Cru

The 1989 Musigny Grand Cru is an underperformer compared to the 1985. It has a distinctly earthy, rather subdued bouquet, like a naughty boy skulking in the corner knowing he has done wrong. A touch of bacon fat develops with aeration, but the nose never manifests the harmony or fruit you expect. The palate is woody with grippy tannin, and it finally provides some sense of cohesion toward the finish. But this Musigny never quite takes off and cannot escape the shackles of ordinariness. Tasted in November 2018 at the Roumier Musigny dinner at Épure in Hong Kong.