1995 Forman Cabernet Sauvignon

(13% alcohol): Medium red. Aromas of dark berries, licorice, mint, leather, burning tobacco and nutty oak. Not a particularly fruity style but supple, plush and round in the middle, offering lovely palate presence and healthy framing acidity. Finishes with dusty, slightly rustic tannins, a faint green edge and very good length, narrowing out a bit on the end. Just lacks a spark for a higher score.

The 1995 red wines were revealing a more closed character than they possessed last year. The 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, followed by an elegant cassis-scented nose with graceful, restrained and measured fruit flavors. Medium to full-bodied, with moderate tannin and an overall impression of tightness, this is a harmonious, well-made wine that is not nearly as expressive this year as it was in 1996. Ideally, this Cabernet needs 3-4 years of cellaring, and should keep for 20 years. Forman's winemaking style produces lean, elegant, exceptionally ageworthy wines. Tel. (707) 963-0234; Fax (707) 963-7867

Bright red-ruby. Complex, subtle aromas of currants, spices, flowers, loam and meat. Velvety-smooth in the mouth but given clarity by lovely acids. This is quite intensely flavored but extremely elegant and understated, with a complete absence of hard edges. Intriguing mineral and floral nuances in the mouth. Very long, subtly fruity aftertaste features completely buffered tannins. This is exactly the kind of cabernet that might be underappreciated in a blind tasting against darker, more powerfully tannic examples from Napa Valley, but it a thoroughly compelling wine that complements rather than overwhelms food.