1999 Domaine Bruno Clair Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru

Moderately saturated medium red. Sexy, evolving scents of black raspberry and animal fur. Boasts good spicy, earthy intensity and surprising mineral-driven energy in the mouth, but this juicy, fine-grained, firmly built wine may still become more yielding with a few more years of cellaring. Finishes with a solid tannic spine and excellent length. Bruno Clair noted that the yield for his Clos de Bèze in 1999 was at least 45 hectoliters per hectare and that the Clos Saint-Jacques was also very high, as in 2009. And he noted that the aromas of his 2002s are less evolved than his 1999s.

The 1999 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques from Bruno Clair, which was tasted blind, has an intriguing menthol-tinged bouquet that feels very refined, though you might argue that it does not quite have the same pedigree as more recent, superlative vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple, silky-smooth texture. There is lovely balance here, the richness of the vintage coming through and rounding up the plump finish that still sports a slightly vanilla-laced veneer. Drink this now or preferably, cellar it for another 4 to 5 years.

Strong ruby with some perceptible evolution. Mid-intensity of flavour. Lots of acidity. A very honest job. Dry finish. Many layers. Classic style. (JR)