1981 Ruinart Dom Ruinart Brut Blanc de Blancs

The previous summer's poor weather had left its mark, and early growth was weak. Spring frosts destroyed 20 to 25% of the crop, followed by a troublesome flowering that also took a slight toll on the harvest. The harvest vendanges began on September 28th under fair skies, but spirits were low in view of the very modest yield. Despite everything, the small clusters of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes (60 grams!) produced particularly fragrant wines. But in rather limited quantities… Harvest: Baumé 9°8 GL – Total acidity 9.2 g/l H2SO4 – S/A 18.1 Chardonnay: Baumé 9°7 GL – Total acidity 9.1 g/l H2SO4Yield: 4,360 kg/ha Assemblage: 100% Chardonnay Grand Cru, exclusively from the Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims. They didn't do malolactic at that time. Disgorged Mar 1991. A real surprise! Such delicacy... Very small quantity because of millerandage. Quite a pale brassy colour. Low-key nose (this may not have come from Ruinart themselves). Something floral and bright and blossomy about this wine. Lovely balance and transparency on the palate. So soft and filigree. Great balance. Not big (the opposite of 1990) yet without the aggressive acidity of 1996. Just so neat and full of fun. (JR)