2016 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

(the yield here was 35 hectoliters per hectare): Pungent scents of grapefruit, pineapple and crushed rock, plus a whiff of orange zest. Sappy, sharply delineated and tightly coiled yet still compellingly supple and fine-grained. Distinctly airy citrus, white peach and mineral flavors show exceptional inner-mouth lift. Finishes with outstanding subtle length and a lemony high note. Less fat, powerful and saline than the 2015 Perrières but a wine of exceptional precision.

The 2016 Meursault 1er Cru les Perrieres manages to retain the stoniness, the sense of the earth that Perrières should convey—well defined, nicely focused with a subtle marmalade tang developing in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, gentle and refined, maybe not quite delivering the mineralité of the best vintages but certainly long and tender in the mouth. I think this has more to give, even if I doubt it will reach the heady heights of the 2014.

Rich and round – really very glorious and savoury. Dense and savoury. Lots of structure but massive fruit. Undertow. Glorious! (JR)