1995 Seavey Cabernet Sauvignon

(14% alcohol): Full medium ruby. Sexy black fruits, dark chocolate, spicecake, exotic herbs and spearmint on the complex, aromatic nose, along with a sexy hint of balsamic cedar. Suave and sweet in the mouth, conveying terrific energy and lift to the nicely delineated flavors of cherry and tobacco leaf. Not a huge wine but boasts lovely concentration and definition, not to mention complexity and ripeness. Tannins are fine-grained and firm without dryness. This classy Cabernet displays lovely balance and intensity without weight, finishing with excellent length and lift.

Seavey has produced some exceptional Cabernet Sauvignons, and I predict the 1995 (950 cases) will be an unexpected winner in many blind tastings. It is performing even better this year than it did last, hence my elevated score. The color is an opaque purple. The wine displays a fantastic nose of classic black currants intermixed with cigar box and cedar scents. In the mouth, it is full-bodied and backward, but persuasively rich, layered, and marvelously well-balanced. There is a deep, sweet mid-palate and explosive ripeness and richness in the long, heady finish. (13.9% alcohol) A sleeper pick in this outstanding vintage, it should evolve effortlessly for 20-30 years. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2028. Tel. (707) 963-8339; Fax (707) 963-0232.

Very good deep ruby color. Superripe aromas of roasted plum, tar, malt and iron, plus a hint of raisin. Silky and quite rich for the year, but with good cut; has a concentration that suggests stressed vines. Lingering finish features fine-grained tannins. These wines manage to be both rich and unusually delicate for Napa cabernet.