2017 Domaine de la Charbonniere Châteauneuf-du-Pape
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The 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape is terrific, offering classic melted licorice, earth, and ground herb notes as well as a swatch of blackberry and black cherry fruit. With medium to full body, ripe tannins, and a layered texture, it’s already impossible to resist yet will cruise for 10-15 years. One of the finest run estates in Châteauneuf du Pape is the Maret family’s Domaine de la Charbonnière, which is in the heart of the appellation, just off the route to Courthezon. They produce four Châteauneuf du Pape (readers should read last year’s report on the 2016 and 2017s for a description of each of the cuvées), all meriting attention. In addition, they’ve added two new Vacqueyras releases, bringing the total from that appellation to three cuvées. The 2017s aren’t far off what was achieved in 2016, and the 2018s all showed beautifully, with more depth and richness that most in the vintage.
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James Suckling
Jeb Dunnuck
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Charbonnière's performance this year was remarkable, all the more so because I didn't visit the estate, so the wines were all tasted blind. The regular cuvée, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape, is a stunning blend of 70% Grenache and 15% each Mourvèdre and Syrah. Cherries, raspberries and orange zest mark the nose, while the full-bodied palate is silky-textured and concentrated, adding layers of dried spices and complex, tea-like notes. Warm and generous, it may not be the longest-lived vintage, but it will offer immense pleasure over the next decade or so.
This has a super fresh and richly fruited style that has such depth and density of red plums and dark berries with a supple and even palate that delivers such richness and also precise and elegant structure. Drink or hold.