2007 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru

Diverse herbs and red fruits as well as satisfying meatiness signal another level of complexity in the Ligniers’ 2007 Morey-St.-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes from the wines that preceded it in their line-up. To be sure, this is less bright or energetic than the corresponding 2008, but there is still some real dynamic as well as lingering interaction of fruit pit piquancy, salinity, herbal pungency, and fresh fruit on a polished palate. This should remain delightful over at least the next half dozen years. Hubert and Laurent Lignier – for more on whose recent evolution as a domaine and as negociants, consult my report in issue 186 – had one barrel from 2008 still stuck in malo last February, and several others had only finished by Christmas. No wines had been bottled (though they were assembled) when I last tasted them in February; indeed even the 2007s here were not bottled until May and June of 2009. Natural alcohol in the 2008 collection peaked at 13% in the Charmes and Combottes (due to extreme millerandage there, notes Laurent Lignier) and all of the wines were very lightly-chaptalized. Sorting was much less arduous for them in 2008 than 2007, he adds. As is evident from my rating, the array of wines from lesser locations or that incorporate purchased fruit have not (in the years since the splitting-up of control over this estate) nearly approached the consistently outstanding quality that the three or four top Lignier bottlings continue to exhibit. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990