2023 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Summa Vineyard

A deeper shade of jeweled ruby red, the 2023 Pinot Noir Summa Old Vine is layered and complex with notes of gravelly dark stones, compact berries, salty earth, orange peel, and a lasting mineral texture. The palate's texture is incredible, and while no whole clusters were used, it has a chalky stoniness that defines and sets this wine apart. It has a haunting feel on the finish, with a linear yet deep complexity. While it’s medium-bodied, it feels deep and expansive, and it’s going to only improve if given another year or more in the cellar. Drink 2026-2046. Owned by Thomas Rivers Brown and Genevieve Marie Welsh and based in Calistoga, Rivers Marie specializes in single varietal, single vineyard expressions of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. One of Sonoma's most prolific winemakers and consultants, Thomas Rivers Brown grew up in South Carolina and later went on to work at Turley before carving his own path forward. I met with Thomas and Will Segui, the assistant winemaker, at the Calistoga winery this spring to taste the wines for this report.