2016 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli is quite mineral in the glass. Ashen stones, savory grilled herbs and smoked meats give way to woodland berries. This is dark and radiant, showing the classic racy fruit of the year, yet unbelievably soft and plaint, taking on a saline edginess toward the close. It finishes youthfully coy with dusty tannins, leaving just a touch of lingering licorice. The Montosoli is understated today, yet with a feminine beauty and inner sweetness that I find attractive.

Lustrous ruby. Concentrated cherry nose with an earthy, minerally note and a hint of gingerbread. With aeration more and more minerally. Tangy gentle fruit with the merest suggestion of oak. Gorgeous chewy tannins. Very suave, supple and elegant. (WS)

Montosoli lies above the morning fog line, allowing for greater exposure to the morning sun, and was the first single vineyard designated wine in Montalcino’s history with its first vintage in 1975. The 2016 takes all the components of the estate Brunello and is amplified with concentrated raspberry coulis, sage, and rose petal. Once again, there is tremendous consistency from the nose to the palate, though here the structure is compact and will need additional time for those who shy away from grippy, building tannins. Drink over the next 20 years or more. Drink 2024-2042. Altesino’s modern history begins with Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, who purchased the estate in 2001 and at the same time purchased the Caparzo estate in the north of Montalcino. Altesino’s holdings include 50 hectares, 26 of which are reserved for Brunello production. Of their seven vineyard sites, Montosoli was the first to carry a vineyard designation in Montalcino, with its first vintage in 1975. Today they have seven vineyard sites, four in the south of the region, reaching as far as Castelnuovo dell’Abate, and three in the north. In 2006, they built a fully sustainable winery and are currently producing zero CO2 emissions. Fermentations occur in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks with selected yeast before being transferred to large Slavonian oak up to 120 hl in size. The winery has two full-time winemakers, Simone Giunti and Alessandro Ciacci. Elisabetta’s children, Alessandra and Ignio (aerospace and environmental engineers, respectively) both tend the estate, with Alessandra returning in 2017.