2004 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Bougros Côte de Bouguerots Grand Cru

Minerals, chalk, rosemary, thyme, and white pepper are found in the nuanced aromatics of the sublime 2004 Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots (domaine). Produced from south-facing vines that bask in the sun whenever it appears, this wine reveals astounding amplitude, depth, concentration, and power. Its rich core is sappy, silky-textured, and presents intense liquefied stone flavors. Notes of fresh mint leaves appear in this offering’s prolonged finish. Projected maturity: now-2016. Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98.84 acres), which is clearly marked on the label. There are also Maison William Fevre – negociant – bottlings, none of which were tasted. The rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau). Didier Seguier attributes the estate’s success in 2004 to two key factors, “the fact that we treated the vines early and therefore did not have oidium problems,” and, just as importantly, “our yields were lower than most because this estate’s vines are over 40 years old and cannot produce plethoric quantities.” On average, across the entire estate, William Fevre harvested 60-65 hectoliters per hectares, 10-15% less than two of this region’s most famous stars, Vincent Dauvissat and the Raveneau brothers. Though Seguier loves his 2004s (“They are precise, classical Chablis.”), his preference is for the 2002s, “the finest vintage I’ve experienced.” Importer: Henriot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 605-6700

Sweeter, fruitier and more floral than Bougros, though I’m not sure I prefer it. More Côte d’Or. (JR)

Complex, vibrant nose combines crystallized lemon peel, pineapple, mint and powdered stone. Round, ripe and seamless but with lovely inner-mouth energy thanks to the chalk and lemonflavors. This has real flavor authority and finishes with a lovely whiplash of fruit.