2023 Tenuta di Castellaro Pomice Bianco
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The organic Tenuta di Castellaro 2023 Bianco Pomice is 60% Malvasia delle Lipari and 40% Carricante harvested at two separate times. Fruit comes from three hectares of bush-trained vines (in a system called "quinconce" that sees spacing of 1.1 meter by 1.1 meter) on sandy volcanic soils with lapilli, pumice stone, obsidian and kaolinite. This 15,000-bottle release ages on the fine lees in stainless steel for nine months. Like past vintages, this wine maintains a distinctly mineral or salty character thanks to these soils and island growing conditions with marine winds and sunshine. This is a delightful wine with a clear sense of place.
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Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Full bottle 1,304 g. Certified organic (Ecocert), vegan friendly (Bio Vegan Attitude). Blend of Malvasia delle Lipari (a semi-aromatic grape usually used to make passito wines in Sicily) and Carricante (to bring acidity to the blend). 20-year-old vines, some them propagated from abandoned old-vine material found on the island. 2023 was a hot vintage for many places but not for the island of Lipari, where it was moderate and balanced. Hand-picked (everything is done by hand in the vineyard). Both varieties were spontaneously fermented in stainless steel. The Malvasia di Lipari Stayed on lees with bâtonnage for just under three weeks and then spent nine months in stainless steel. The wines were blended after nine months. Released end of summer 2024. You can cellar this for several years, I’m told. First vintage was 2008 (only did 1,000 bottles) and now they producer around 12–13,000 bottles according to vintage. The wine sweeps in on a flurry of floral airiness: daffodils and lemon verbena blossom, buttery broom flowers. But under that is glittering intensity of bitter citrus and salinity and something that reminds me so very much of the capers that grow all around the vineyards and in profusion on the island. Full of wild herbs and a kind of rock-pool stoniness. Kind of like pickled samphire in its tangy, sour-green, fresh and bitingly addictive character. (TC)
The 2023 Bianco Pomice wafts up with a slightly muddled bouquet of wet stones, wild herbs and apricots. Zesty and fresh, it opens with saline mineral tones, followed by citrus-laced orchard fruits. Tropical inner florals linger as the 2023 finishes with a citrusy concentration that adds a pleasantly chewy sensation. Fine, but it could impress much more with greater clarity on the nose.