1969 Château Haut-Brion

Soft tobacco, rose petals, hedgerow, undergrowth, saffron, this is a great bottle in what was a challenging vintage. As it was ex-cellar, drunk at the estate, I might have been getting an usually good version, but this was gulpable, in that way that all truly great wines are, when you are halfway through the glass before you realise that you ought to slow down and appreciate just how magical the wine in front of you is. Lace-like tannins, just so fine and delicate but still holding everything firmly in place, fruit in the background at this point, with saffron, turmeric, tobacco leaf and clove spinning out the length. Jean-Bernard Delmas director.