2009 Ojai Chardonnay Solomon Hills Vineyard

The 2009 Chardonnay Solomon Hills literally hovers on the palate with incomparable grace and class. The style is one of exceptional textural elegance. Cool, mineral notes, and a hint of spice frame a vibrant core of citrus in this bright, beautifully focused Chardonnay. The Solomon Hills is made from Dijon clones planted in 1999. It is an absolutely fabulous wine for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Ojai and proprietor Adam Tolmach. The 2009 Pinots and 2008 Syrahs in particular are terrific. The best Ojai wines – and there are many that vie for that label – are gorgeous, transparent to site and highly expressive. As always, the style at Ojai is fairly non-interventionalist. Since 2005, the fermentations have been gentler, with less overall extraction. The malos proceed naturally and slowly. As a rule, the wines are never racked until bottling. The Ojai wines remain exceedingly fairly priced considering the quality and painstaking effort that goes into every bottle. Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com

Light, bright gold. Riper and more expressive than the Bien Nacido bottling but missing some of that wine's precision. Plump, expansive orchard and pit fruit flavors are lifted and energized by gentle acidity. The silky finish shows very good persistence and lingering spiciness.