2010 Failla Syrah Estate

The 2010 Syrah Estate Vineyard is notably more reticent than the Hudson. The Estate plays much more in the aromatic spectrum of things, with high-toned, floral and savory notes galore. Here, the fruit is less obvious than in the Hudson, but the wine’s balance is just as compelling. In 2010, both Syrahs are beautiful, but the Estate is a bit gamier and less overly fruit driven than the Hudson. The 2010 Estate was vinified with 100% whole clusters, which comes through in the wine’s personality to a greater extent than in the Hudson Syrah. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Ehren Jordan is one of those people who are maddeningly talented at many things. Jordan recently left his post at Turley, where he spent nearly 20 years making a dizzying array of superb Zinfandels. At Failla, which Jordan owns with his wife Anne-Marie, the focus is on cool-climate Chardonnays and Pinots, rendered in a range that approximates Turley when it comes to the number of different bottlings. Did I mention Jordan is versed in the classics and is also a licensed pilot? Jordan wants to spend more time at Failla, and I believe it, given the breadth of this range. Frankly, I can’t imagine how Ehren took care of similarly large portfolios at both Turley and Failla while maintaining a sense of sanity. It will be interesting to see how things develop at Failla. The wines are already stellar, as I hope these notes amply demonstrate. Simply put, Failla is a reference point winery for the Sonoma Coast. This is as good as it gets. Tel. (707) 963-0530

(13.9% alcohol; vinified with 100% whole clusters): Dark ruby. Captivating aromas of black olive tapenade, violet face powder and crushed rock; smells like a northern Rhone wine from granite. Then leaner in the mouth than the nose suggests, with a distinctly peppery quality to the moderately ripe, musky dark fruits. The peppery character follows through on the rather clenched finish.