2024 Tablas Creek Vermintino

The story goes that the Haas family chose four white varieties (Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Grenache Blanc) and four red varieties (Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah, Counoise) to import from Château de Beaucastel in 1993. These were sent to the USDA for virus checking … but 10 varieties showed up (the ones they’d selected, plus Vermentino and Tannat). The gentleman who ran the nursery had decided that Vermentino and Tannat would be perfect in California. The Haas family went ahead and planted both. They are very happy to have them and Jason Haas says, ‘I think Vermentino should replace two-thirds of the Sauvignon Blanc in California. It’s done fermenting in November; you keep it on lees in stainless steel until you can bottle it in January. We’re so low on white wines by January that its really practical – it’s ready four months before anything else.’ Certified regenerative (ROC), biodynamic (Demeter) and organic (CCOF). Pale lemon. Mineral but with a bit of candied banana smell – juicy and slightly grassy and sweet smelling. Mouth-watering acidity that lingers on the rounded palate. Just a touch of phenolic impact. (SCJ)