2017 Uva Mira Chardonnay

The 2017 Chardonnay begins with bright and ripe aromas of juicy apple, sweet Bosc pear and Meyer lemon with elegant oak tones from 50% new French oak. Medium-bodied, the palate offers zesty and energetic acidity that is balanced by rich oak tones propping up the fresh and ripe pomaceous and citrus notes. The wine somersaults onto the elongated finish that persists with a citrus-laced note. Only 1,800 were filled after resting for nine months in French oak. The wine comes in at 13.5% alcohol.

Melon, a squeeze of lime, attractive leesy texture even though the body is fairly light. Neither sulphidic nor oaky, this is finely balanced and pure, with a seam of mineral flavour on the finish, and it has straitjacket restraint. Almost austere to finish. Fixes you with a steely gaze. (RH)

Full bottle 1,582 g. From 0.2 ha at 620 m on decomposed granite. Made and aged in old oak. Day one, tasted with the bottle in front of me: NHB. White pepper and vanilla pannacotta and lime peel. Razor-wire lime acidity, dried toasted coconut and cedar and sandalwood. Green nectarines and fennel. Granite dust and cut box leaf. At the moment, this is a wine that is all edges, all blades, cold white light slicing through skin, the taste of a flint blade dipped in lime juice. Hold. Hold. Hold. Day two, tasted blind in a line-up of nine oaked South African whites:   Beautiful nose – tucked in and not broadcasting loudly, but it transcribes itself directly on to the palate. Clarion-pure apricot fruit. Papaya, quince, florals, an electric volt of acidity. SO much life here! Superior, intense, concentrated and glorious. Curves playing with edges, like dolphin fins slicing through black ocean waves, arcing, glittering, grace, finesse, tightly synchronised power and beauty. When I tasted this yesterday, I didn't think it justified the price tag. Today I'm not so sure. I would be very, very interested to taste this in a line-up of £80 Chardonnays from around the globe.  (TC)