2021 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe
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Made with 100% Nerello Mascalese, the Girolamo Russo 2021 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe represents a very special selection of fruit from 80-year-old vines from a half-hectare subsection of the excellent San Lorenzo vineyard. Giuseppe Russo says that his father Girolamo would tell him that this tiny patch of vineyard behaved better than the rest in terms of its slow ripening and ensuing complexity. A balanced vintage like 2021 conveys a beautiful sense of consistency and intensity with pressed flower, wild berry fruit, cassis and a citrusy close. The wine spent 18 days on the skins and aged in tonneaux and barrique for 18 months. It is only produced in the best years, and this vintage saw a mere 750 bottles produced. This is a stunning wine from Etna, and I say that because of its impressive clarity and precision of flavors.
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Monica Larner, Wine Advocate
Eric Guido, Vinous
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The 2021 Etna Rosso San Lorenzo Piano delle Colombe is intense and youthfully backward, grumbling up with a tightly coiled yet complex bouquet. Exotic spices emerge amidst a mix of dried berries, with shavings of cedar and hints of forest floor that ground the experience. It’s elegant and harmonious throughout. Textures of pure silk gain lift through brilliant acidity as a coating of chalky minerals saturates and ripe wild berry fruit cascade throughout. This tapers off with a piercing layer of fine tannin as violet inner florals and notes of tart blackberry linger on. This is the most complete interpretation of Piano delle Colombe I’ve experienced. In a word: superb.