2002 Vineyard 29 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

This wine has matured beautifully and seems to be close to that plateau where all the component parts have melded together, in this case rather effortlessly. Vinified and brought up by French winemaking consultant Philippe Melka, this wine, which is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from their (at the time) tiny six-acre vineyard, produced less than 300 cases. Notes of charcoal, graphite, black currants, tobacco leaf and forest floor are all present in its complex aromatics. The color is a healthy dense ruby/purple and the wine medium to full-bodied, with beautiful intensity, purity and balance. This beauty, which is more in the elegant, feminine school of Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, should be drunk over the next 10-15 years. Tel. (707) 963-9292; Fax (707) 963-7848

Ruby-red. Aromas of blackcurrant, blackberry, licorice and menthol. Lush, creamy and sweet, with harmonious acidity giving definition to the dense cassis and blackberry flavors. Finishes with serious, rich but fine tannins that arrive late. Only 275 cases were produced in 2002, as winemaker Philippe Melka was not thrilled with one of the lots of cabernet sauvignon. Beginning in 2004, this wine will include some cabernet franc, which was recently planted on warm soil at the top of the property, with a northern exposure.

Full ruby-red. Currant syrup, black plum, leather, cedar and licorice on the nose, plus a whiff of maple syrup. Fatter, sweeter and lusher than the 2001 but not yet as shapely or delineated. This got better and better in the glass, showing compelling sweetness and terrific depth of flavor. The strong but well-distributed tannins reach the front teeth. Still dominated by its baby fat, but extremely promising.