2002 Pierre Gimonnet Brut Paradoxe 1er Cru

The 2002 Brut Cuvee Paradoxe is an exotic wine loaded with the essence of cherries, passion fruit, mango, candied ginger and spices that recalls elements of Gewurztraminer. Slightly oxidative notes add an additional measure of complexity. This is a full-bodied, intense wine that desperately needs food to show at its best, but even alone it is a stunner. The 2002 Paradoxe is 50% Pinot Noir (from Mareuil-sur-Ay) 25% Chardonnay (from Mareuil-sur-Ay) and 25% Chardonnay (from Cuis). This bottle was disgorged in January, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2017. Didier Gimonnet is a small grower based in Cuis. Gimonnet’s vineyards are mostly planted to Chardonnay, although in 2002 he added to his holdings by acquiring Pinot Noir plots in Mareuil-sur-Ay. Gimonnet’s style expresses freshness above all else, and he aims to make wines meant to be enjoyed upon release. Gimonnet is among the growers who believe in the art of blending, even among his top-level wines, as opposed to the expression of single sites. A Terry Theise Selection, imported by: Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

(disgorged January, 2008) Yellow-gold. Deeply scented nose displays ripe pear, apple, beeswax, honey and truffle. Apricot and peach flavors are refreshingly bitter, with a suave smoky quality gaining strength on the finish. I like this wine's density and understated energy.

(disgorged October 4, 2006) Pale straw. Intensely perfumed aromas of vibrant green apple, quince and Meyer lemon, complicated by honeysuckle and cinnamon. Dry and firm, with sharply etched citrus and orchard fruit flavors and bracing minerality. Clean, vibrant and impressively persistent on the finish, which leaves behind a strong stony quality. Considerably more impressive than the earlier disgorgement I tried last fall.