1990 Domaine Les Cailloux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire

The staggering 1990 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire is filled with massive garrigue, spice box and stone notes blended with sweet red fruit aromatics. Despite seeing close to 18 months in new oak, this doesn’t show a hint of wood and is intense, perfumed and complex. This continued to flesh out in the glass and showed a full bodied palate with rich fruit, awesome texture and a finish that just wouldn’t quit. Drinking at point and simply a stunning Chateauneuf!

One of the greatest vintages for Andre Brunel, aside from his extraordinary succession of vintages from 1998-2001 is 1990. The perfect Cuvee Centenaire is still dense ruby/purple-colored with a sumptuous nose of white flowers, raspberry and cherry liqueur, smoke, and mineral scents. The gorgeous aromatics are followed by an unctuously-textured, pure wine that combines the best of Chateauneuf du Pape with the floral, earthy complexity of a great grand cru red Burgundy. This is a riveting tour de force in winemaking. Don’t miss it. Anticipated maturity: now-2020. From this impeccably run estate, Andre Brunel produces 7,000 cases of a traditionally made regular Chateauneuf du Pape, and, when possible, about 500 cases of Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire. The Cuvee Centenaire emerges from 114-year old Grenache vines (about 80-85% of the blend), which is combined with younger-vine Syrah and Mourvedre. Approximately half of the blend spends time in new oak casks, and half in neutral foudres or vats. Brunel, who is one of the most articulate spokespersons of Chateauneuf du Pape, continues to fine tune his winemaking, always trying to enhance the fruit and texture. That has been apparent over recent vintages, although some of the old classics are not to be missed. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083