2004 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard

The 2004 Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard is reminiscent of a Montrachet with its stony, liquified mineral character. Notions of quince, white currants, stone fruits, white peaches, and spring flowers also emerge from this amazingly full-bodied, powerful, backward effort. This Chardonnay tends to be aged in 100% new oak (which is totally concealed) and is bottled without fining or filtration. Consequently, if it has just been shipped or moved, it can reveal a slight haze. Previously recommended: 2003 Chardonnay Lauren (96), 2003 Chardonnay Quarry (95), 2003 Chardonnay Reuling (94), 2003 Chardonnay Ritchie (96), 2003 Pinot Noir Reuling (96). Tel. (707) 942-5611; Fax (707) 942-1573

(80% new oak) Fairly pale, green-tinged color. Initially more reticent on the nose, but opened to show an exotic apple, cinnamon and creme brulee character. Fat, broad, rich and very dry, but not yet expressing itself. With less obvious mid-palate flavor complexity today, one is aware of the 15.8% alcohol. But this highly concentrated chardonnay finishes with excellent persistence.