1998 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Back label says: ‘Selected from “La Storica”, the Biondi Santi Riserva wine library at Tenuta Greppo’. From the leaflet attached to the bottle: ‘Produced for the first time in 1888, the Biondi Santi Riserva was the first Brunello di Montalcino in history. This wine has been released only 39 times from 1888 till 2020’. Bottle number 09408. Lustrous mid ruby with narrow orange rim. Amazing focus and lift on the nose. Sour cherry with hints of iron and liquorice. Still so youthful and concentrated and at the same time so elegant. Succulent and long and with a layer of polished tannins carrying the fruit. Cool, sleek and long, this is a monument of elegance and style. (WS)

These back vintages are available to purchase by special request. The 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva comes from an under-the-radar vintage that has blossomed today. The aging potential of these Riservas from Il Greppo must be tasted to be believed. Driven by fresh acidity that remains firm and taut, this wine reveals a dark garnet color and mid-weight concentration. The bouquet presents a careful succession of dried berry, forest floor and spice aromas that builds in intensity as the wine warms in the glass. The wine hits the palate with immediate brilliance and sparkle. This bottle is at its drinking prime right now. It's a true beauty.

Biondi-Santi's 1998 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, rich and deep in its expression, offers a tight core of dark fruit enshrouded by a wall of tannins in a potent, concentrated style, with notable length although the tannins are quite dry on the end and convey an overall impression of austerity. This wine did not materially change over the several days I left the bottle open. Anticipate maturity