2009 Corton Les Bressandes

The 2009 Corton Les Bressandes is an implosive wine. It possesses massive structure and powerful tannins, but the best is many years away. The fruit is very nicely textured on the long, pointed finish. This shows superb purity, class and pedigree.

The 2009 Corton-Les Bressandes is an implosive wine. It possesses massive structure and powerful tannins, but the best is many years away. The fruit is very nicely textured on the long, pointed finish. This shows superb purity, class and pedigree. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2039. This is a stunning set of wines from Patrick Landager. The vintage yielded a set of super-sized, big wines that may shock some readers for their sheer intensity. These are among some of the most backward 2009s I tasted and will require considerable patience. The estate now farms a total of 19 hectares, which includes the vineyards Landager acquired when he bought Domaine Moine-Hudelot a few years back. In 2009 Landager started harvesting on September 22, when most people were already finished picking. Cuvaison started with 5-6 days of cold maceration and lasted a total of three weeks with one punchdown in the morning and a second in the afternoon. The wines spent 12-15 months in oak (roughly 30% new) on their fine lees with no rackings until they were prepared for bottling, which took place with no fining or filtration. (Note: the Chambolle saw 50% new oak). All of the 2009s were bottled in early February 2010. Importers: North Berkeley Wine, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 336-9880; a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

Deep ruby-red. Wild, reduced, slightly stunted aromas of licorice, mocha, pepper and smoked meat; reminded me of syrah. Then very ripe and broad in the mouth, with an almost roasted quality to the crystallized black raspberry and black cherry fruit flavors. A bit rough in texture and seriously primary but already displays surprising lift. Finishes with serious tannic structure and excellent length.