1997 St Pierre (St Julien)

The underrated estate of St.-Pierre deserves more attention. While the wines do not quite hit the heights of Leoville-Las-Cases, Leoville-Barton, or Leoville-Poyferre, they are remarkably consistent, chunky, husky Bordeaux with considerable character. The 1997 reveals a nicely saturated ruby/purple color, and an earthy, spicy, fruit-driven bouquet (primarily jammy black currants) with subtle new oak in the background. Dense on the palate, and slightly backward, this fleshy, expansive but moderately tannic wine will be one of the few 1997s that will not be ready to drink upon release. However, it is approachable. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2013.