2004 Roses de Jeanne Rosé de Saignee Le Creux d'Enfer

The 2004 Roses de Jeanne Rose de Saignee Creux d-Enfer is made from miniscule yields of 12 hectoliters per hectare. The wine is vinified in the saignee style, which is to say that the wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, rather than a blend to which still Pinot is added. This rich, exuberant Champagne is loaded with ripe red fruit. The mousse is very fine, yet the wine shows some animale notes that recall the great red Burgundies of Gevrey. This is a wild, unrestrained wine imbued with tons of personality and class that is not to be missed. Bouchard's Rose de Saignee Creux d-Enfer spent 46 months on its lees and was bottled unfined and unfiltered with no dosage. Sadly there are just a few hundred bottles of this magical wine to go around. This bottle was disgorged in March 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. The explosive, kaleidoscopic Champagnes of Cedric Bouchard are some of the most compelling wines coming out of the region today. Quite simply, this set of new releases left me speechless and literally shaking my head in awe. Readers should do whatever they can to experience these magnificent wines. Bouchard farms just under three hectares of vineyards. There are two ranges; the Inflorescence wines are made from vineyards owned by Bouchard's father, while the Roses de Jeanne wines are made from vineyards Bouchard owns himself. The vineyards are cropped to yields that would be considered miniscule in any region in the world, but are shockingly low compared to the average in Champagne, where high yields are prevalent. Because of the low yields, the wines reveal a very fine and subtle mousse. The wines are made from hand harvested fruit, crushed by foot and fermented with natural yeasts. Bouchard prefers stainless steel, as he believes the neutrality of steel allows for the maximum amount of expression of his philosophy, which is single-vineyard,single vintage and single-variety bottlings. The wines are neither fined nor filtered and are disgorged with no dosage. Unfortunately the wines do not carry a disgorgement date on the label, although I am told that will be changing next year. A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

In the finest vintages Bouchard makes a Rosé de Saignée from Le Creux d'Enfer, another tiny plot, which measures just three measly rows of vines. Over the years, Bouchard has increased maceration times for the Rosé from 18 hours in 2002 to 42 hours for the 2009. Production ranges from 370 to 500 bottles of this magical, contemplative Champagne, which was first produced in 2002. Le Creux d'Enfer is Bouchard's rarest and most expensive Champagne, but it is worth every penny and then some. Bouchard recently planted another three rows of vines, this time with Chardonnay, for his Coteaux Champenois. The 2004 Rosé de Saignée Le Creux d'Enfer is an astonishing wine graced with endless layers of rose petals, mint, flowers and berries all of which come together on a fresh, vibrant frame of exquisite beauty. This is an incredibly sexy rosé loaded with character and pedigree. The 2004 is quite a bit more linear than the 2002 and ideally it is best left alone in the cellar for a few years. The 2004 saw 24 hours of maceration.

The 2004 Roses de Jeanne Brut Rosé de Saignée Creux d'Enfer is made from miniscule yields of 12 hectoliters per hectare. The wine is vinified in the saignée style, which is to say that the wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, rather than a blend to which still Pinot is added. This is a rich, exuberant Champagne is loaded with ripe red fruit. The mousse is very fine, yet the wine shows some animale notes that recall the great red Burgundies of Gevrey. This is a wild, unrestrained wine imbued with tons of personality and class that is not to be missed. Bouchard's Rosé de Saignée Creux d'Enfer spent 46 months on its lees and was bottled unfined and unfiltered with no dosage. Sadly there are just a few hundred bottles of this magical wine to go around. This bottle was disgorged in March 2008.