2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Impassable Mountain Reserve
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The stunning 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon 55% Slope Impassable Mountain Reserve (15% alcohol) boasts copious notes of licorice, creme de cassis, charcoal, blackberries and forest floor in a rich, full-bodied, opulent style. Vaguely reminiscent of some of Diamond Creek Cabernet Sauvignons made in the mid-1970s, this brilliant wine should age easily for 20-25 years. Something of this quality from Napa would cost two to ten times as much. I am not familiar with this terroir, but apparently it is on the Mayacamas Mountain at the Napa/Sonoma county line. There are 21 blocks of Cabernet Sauvignon planted at elevations ranging from 1,200 to 1,700 feet. As one can see from the wine names, this is somewhat like the exercise Schrader does with the different clonal material for the Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard. Here, the winemaker is doing it with degrees of slope. Tel. (707) 481-7021
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Robert Parker