2007 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Meo’s 2007 Clos Vougeot smells of smoke, resin, rich beef stock, maple syrup, and both blackberry and blueberry preserves, all elements that follow on an expansive, lush, decidedly sweet palate, yet one that preserves a fresh, juicy component and a transparency to stony mineral notes and spicy nuances often missing in this vintage. This harmonious, multi-layered Clos Vougeot could, I suspect, be enjoyed anytime over at least the next 8-10 years. Most interestingly in view of its strong showing and element of freshness, Nicolas Meo says that this was among his few 2007s that was picked at higher sugar than the corresponding 2008. Jean-Nicolas Meo emphasized the contrast between the low pHs of his 2008s (typical, of course, for this vintage in general) and the high pHs of 2007, which ironically – since the latter were given a higher dosage of sulfur as a precaution against undesirable bacteriological activity – led, he reported, to 2007s that showed a harder side initially than many of the corresponding 2008s. Given the high acids of 2008, says Meo, he preferred to let the fruit hang longer – even despite some shriveling – so that few of the musts were chaptalized and most were 13% or higher in natural alcohol. Typical for this address, the wines display admirable, even unusually strong sweetness of fruit, but in 2008 accompanied by prominent tannins and notes of new wood. Meo compares his 2008s with 2001 and 1996, opining that his wines from those two vintages have for the most part – in contrast with many 1993s – evolved nicely and without exhibiting excessive stiffness or hardness. I caught some 2008s in bottle and others from tank just before bottling, and the several 2007s I tasted alongside showed well, although Meo – in contrast with most growers – thinks his 2008 fruit was superior even in sheer ripeness. (Negociant wines – some from parcels the Meos in fact farm – are noted as “Frere et Soeur.”) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524. Also a Jean-Marie de Champs Selection (various importers), French fax 011 33 3 80 22 58 25

Good medium red. Musky, slightly reduced aromas of cherry, smoke and game. Sweet, generous and rich, with more depth and a smoother texture to its dark berry flavors than the Boudots. Here the tannins seem riper, allowing the flavors to linger. A big, tactile yet elegant wine with noteworthy persistence.

Medium red. Shy but complex nose hints at berries, mocha, menthol and roasted nuts. Silky and suave in the mouth, with nicely integrated acidity and rather fine-grained, building tannins giving grip to this rather subtle wine. Not a big boy, but I can see this putting on weight during its final months of elevage