2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys 1er Cru

The Rotys’ 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys really shows the class of its origins, high up on Gevrey’s south side against Ruchottes-Chambertin. A nose of black fruits and underbrush leads to an intense, clear, bright, and silken-textured palate full of beef marrow, black cherry, plum, blueberry and brown spices. A firm chalky, stony character underlies this wine’s long finish of deep fruit and dark forest floor. For all of its dark shadings, its super-saturation of ripe fruit, and its obvious extract, this retains an invigorating freshness, elegance, and eloquent clarity. Lock it away though for at least a decade. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?). Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.

Deep medium ruby. Black cherry and licorice lifted by a floral topnote. Then quite closed, even brutal, in the mouth, with a flavor of black cherry and some obvious oakiness. This brooding young wine is currently locked up tight and very hard to taste. Judgment deferred.