1996 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

(from a bottle opened at the domaine). Consistent with many of the better '96s, this is still completely primary with light spice and earth nuances adding depth to the very fresh red berry fruit aromas that precede racy, intense and impressively precise middle weight flavors that culminate in a solidly long and detailed finish. Though this is not an especially dense wine, it is very well balanced as the acidity does not dominate the finish. In a word, lovely. I had another bottle several years ago that did not show anywhere near the quality displayed by the domaine-stored example.

This medium-to-dark ruby/purple-colored offering has a magnificent nose of deeply ripe dark fruits intermingled with traces of underbrush and Asian spices. This fat, expressive, rich, expansive, and full-bodied wine has an awesome texture (pure velvet), gorgeous balance, and loads of showy and opulent fruit. Plump black cherries, plums, blueberries, and cassis are intertwined with minerals, earth, and hints of porcini mushrooms in this elegant, muscular wine's flavor profile. Projected maturity: 2003-2010+. This famed wine is produced from a relatively large (3 hectares - almost as large as Claude Dugat's entire estate), old vine parcel located near the top of the clos. The village appellation offerings from Vosne and Nuits have the lowest pHs (3.35) of Meo's wines (the rest are between 3.45 and 3.5). Importers: Western US: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524; Eastern US: Domaines et Saveurs Collection, Jeanne-Marie de Champs, French Fax: 33-3-80-22-58-25.