2000 Château Pavie

Hard to believe that Gerard Perse had only been at Pavie for two years by this point, so thoroughly had he remade the wine. I have always said that it's hard to fully appreciate Pavie until it has reached maturity, and time has softened the power that is intrinsic to its first decade - this is a great example of why it is worth the wait. Now 25 years old, it is still deeply coloured, but the aromatics are melted and finessed, sandalwood, campfire, tobacco leaf, incense, crayon, truffle, bitter cocoa bean, cassis fruit puree, stretched out tannins and a wave of salinity on the finish. 100% new oak, with extended ageing in barrel. Jean-Baptiste Pion winemaker, Michel Rolland consultant.

Medium garnet-brick in color, the 2000 Pavie needs a little swirl to coax out fragrant notes of dried roses, cinnamon stick, red loam, and fallen leaves leading to a core of kirsch, plum preserves, and blueberry compote plus a hint of cardamom. The medium to full-bodied palate is an exercise in grace and suppleness, featuring exquisitely ripe, silky tannins and seamless freshness to frame the achingly perfumed fruit, finishing so, so long and so, so fragrant. This was the first vintage using the "Eleanor" bottle shape that Pavie is well-known for today.

The best I have had of this in a few years showed loads of ripe, black cherries, crushed rock, dried flowers, tobacco leaf, smoke, cocoa, and licorice. Full-bodied, long, and deep, with a big mouthful of black cherries and salty plums in the finish. Drink from 2023-2040.