2022 Domaine Daniel & Martine Barraud Pouilly-Fuissé En Bulands Vieilles Vignes

From Barraud's 89-year-old vines opposite Les Crays located on north-facing incline (hence no Premier Cru classification) the 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé En Buland proves why consumers should not restrict their choices to the new top level: some cuvées are Premier Cru in all but name. This has a captivating bouquet with yellow fruit, wet clay, yellow flowers and just a hint of peppermint, extremely well-defined, one of those aromatics that stop you in your tracks. The palate is supremely well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh with a composed, almost understated finish. This will bide its time, so stick it away in a cellar for a few years, because this is Pouilly-Fuissé from the top drawer. Magnificent.