2013 Capensis Chardonnay

The maiden 2013 Capensis Chardonnay has some serious star players behind it: proprietors Barbara Banke (Jackson Family Estate) and Antony Beck (Graham Beck Wines), vineyard manager Rosa Kruger and winemaker Graham Weerts. The philosophy behind it is straightforward (in principal): source fruit from exceptional vineyard sites, which this year comes from the Fijnbosch Vineyard in Stellenbosch, Kaaimansgat in Overberg and E. Bruwer in Robertson. Around 55% of the crop is matured in new French barrels for 12 months. It has an attractive nose with subtle tropical aromas, a touch of white peach and shaved almond that attains more delineation as it opens in the glass (I allowed mine an hour to aerate). The palate displays impressive weight whilst maintaining good balance, notes of Cornice pear, nectarine and a light touch of peach, then erring towards brioche with time. There is just a touch of orange peel enlivening the finish. It marks a decent debut, as it ought to given the price and the names behind it. What I would say is that it does not have the mineralité, the nervosité of a top class Chardonnay, and I opened a couple of my favorite South African examples to compare. That's not to say subsequent vintages will find that. What this is, is a delicious, well crafted Chardonnay that you could cellar for a decade, though I have no qualms in drinking it over the next year or two.

This wine, made for the Jackson Family Estates team by Cape Town-born, US-based Jackson winemaker Graham Weerts, is the American company's first South African release and is a bit like all the wines from this stable: absolutely reliable, distinctly superior, but not thrilling. It's an excellent Cape answer to white burgundy with good tension and is based on vineyards in high-altitude Stellenbosch (60% of the blend) plus contributions from Kaaimansgut and Robertson selected by Rosa Kruger. I'm glad it exists and I hope it will help to put South Africa on the American wine lovers' map. (JR)