2010 Domaine Lignier-Michelot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2010 Charmes-Chambertin (from a parcel in Mazoyeres) possesses fabulous energy and intensity in a style that is at once powerful yet feminine. Intense layers of mineral-infused fruit wrap around the palate staining finish. The Charmes is flat-out gorgeous. Lignier used 100% whole clusters here. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2040. Virgile Lignier began his harvest on September 24. Potential alcohols came in between 11.8 and 14%. The wines under 12.5% were lightly chaptalized by about a half degree. I tasted all of the 2010s from tank, where they were resting in anticipation of bottling, which was scheduled to start this January. Virgile Lignier told me he was quite surprised by the quality of the 2010s, especially the ripeness of the tannins. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

(100% vendange entier ; no pigeage ; from vines planted in 1947; 13.8% natural alcohol): Deep red-ruby. Superripe aromas of black raspbery and mocha. Big, rich, sweet and powerful, with a nearly porty ripeness to the slightly diffuse flavors of black raspberry and violet. Finishes with big, dusty tannins. A bit crude for grand cru, with a distinctly late-picked quality. Am I catching this at an awkward stage?