2014 Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Les Bermonts

From Chardonnay vines planted in 1962, the 2014 Ambonnay Grand Cru Les Bermonts was disgorged without dosage in March 2019. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of waxy lemon rind, confit citrus, pastry cream, orange oil and blanched almonds, it's full-bodied, ample and enveloping, with a fleshy and muscular profile that's vinous and textural but at the same time youthfully reserved, concluding with a long and saline finish. While Pinot Noir dominates Chardonnay in terms of planted acreage in this village, this wine makes clear that Ambonnay dominates either cépage in the glass.