2019 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Les Vaillons 1er Cru

Lots of chalk and stone on the nose with some dried white flowers and sliced green apples. Medium-to full-bodied and layered, yet tight and integrated, with cooked apple, lemon rind and stone. Drink or hold.

40–50% fermented in French oak barrels (aged 6 years on average). The remainder is vinified in small stainless-steel vats. Aged 13–14 months, of which 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 40 to 50% of the harvest. The end of maturation occurs in small stainless-steel vats. Tank sample. Even though this has no more oak influence than the other Fèvre premiers crus, it smells more spicy in a stony/smoky, perhaps slightly reductive, way. Tight, zesty citrus on the palate. Intense, with no loss of freshness. Mouth-wateringly moreish. (JH)

(from a huge 3.5 ha holding that is composed by ~75% of Vaillons proper with the remainder from Roncières, Mélinots and Châtains). A slightly riper and quite dense nose features notes of white pepper, quinine, mineral reduction and a combination of orchard fruit compote scents. There is excellent volume to the sappy and powerful flavors that, somewhat surprisingly, flirt with rusticity on the noticeably warm bitter lemon-inflected finish. Like the Beauroy, this is not a Vaillons of finesse, but it certainly cannot be faulted for a lack of frank character. 2024+