2008 Roy Estate PNV

Close in quality but perhaps not quite as exuberant and profound is the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot). It boasts an opaque purple color as well as abundant notes of charcoal, scorched earth, underbrush, licorice, black currants and blackberries. Slightly more evolved than the 2007, it is nearly that wine’s equal in terms of depth, richness and overall appeal. This strong effort should drink well for two decades or more. When I met with proprietor Shirley Roy I was saddened to learn that her husband, Charles, had passed away this year. Together they had dreamed of producing world class wines from their 17-acre vineyard in the southern part of Napa Valley known as Soda Canyon. Shirley is committed to continuing that dream, and I wish her all the best. She’s in good hands given the fact that their vineyard was planted by Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer, and the wine is now being made by the well-known French consultant, Philippe Melka. If readers have not yet checked out the Roy offerings from this rocky, cool climate site at the base of Atlas Peak, I highly suggest they do so. Tel. (707) 255-4409; Fax (707) 255-4472

Good full ruby. More obviously cabernet on the nose than the red blend, with blueberry, cassis and gravelly notes dominating. Then much more structured and serious on the palate, showing a more tactile texture but considerably less evolution to its dark berry flavors. This one is not a Right Bank style. Finishes with excellent energy and rising length.