1995 Curatolo Arini Marsala Vergine Riserva

The 1995 Marsala Vergine Riserva is, at first, quite coy, while displaying a deep orange hue. Its aromatics come forward with coaxing, and, as it warms in the glass, dried peaches and apricots are complemented by hints of candied orange peels, almond paste and a whiff of salty sea air that adds gravitas. This is soft-textured and decidedly savory in style, with bitter almond and dried orchard fruits contrasted by salty minerals. It tapers off a bit shorter than anticipated, yet it does a good job of leaving the palate nicely refreshed. In the end, I expected a bit more depth.