2019 Domaine Mee Godard Moulin-à-Vent Au Michelon

From sandy soils comes the 2019 Moulin-à-Vent Au Michelon, a pretty, velvety wine that soars from the glass with notes of red berries, plums, warm spices, potpourri and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and succulent, it's a fine-boned, elegant Moulin-à-Vent that comes warmly recommended.

Full bottle 1,360 g. In conversion to organic certification. I put this to my nose, lean into the smell – deep forest; mushrooms growing under the fragrant decay of an ancient tree struck down by a storm years ago; tiny wild orchids the size of a baby-fingernail, pink in a small pool of filtered sunlight; moss – and then lean into its liquid-silk taste. If Charlie Mackesy made wine, it would taste like this. Of ink and broad bold scrawls that somehow are fine exquisite lines; of simplicity that is somehow complex; of minimalism that is somehow rich; of black and white that is somehow exploding with colour. Cherry jam and szechuan pepper. Gorgeously sweet fruit in a powerfully dry, savoury framework. Of her 2018  Au Michelon , I wrote, 'Mee takes Gamay to its edges, but never crosses the line. She is a magician. Or a dancer.' I stand by those words, yet again. (TC)