2010 La Serena Brunello di Montalcino

Impenetrable dark mature ruby with narrow orange rim. Very savoury and meaty with an undertow of sweet dark fruit. Intense cherry and perfumed sweet-raspberry palate. Quite a rich style and with bags of chewy tannins that need time to integrate, but the whole is certainly impressive. (WS)

Intense aromas of dried citrus and meat with hints of rose bush and fresh rosemary. Full body with full, velvety tannins and a decadent, rich finish. Fascinating flavors of spice, citrus and meat. Loads of fruit. From biodynamically grown grapes. Better in 2016.

I am absolutely impressed by the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino from La Serena. The style is bold and far-reaching (the alcohol clocks in at 15%) yet the volume is never turned up so high as to drown out the delicate layers of cassis, balsam herb, rosemary and dried tobacco that flutter weightlessly at the back. In addition to the high quality of fruit, the wine exhibits seductive notes of spice, tobacco and dried jerky. This excellent Brunello has not yet started its bottle evolution. Its prime drinking window won't open for another six to ten years so you'll need to be extremely patient.