2012 Domaine Hubert Lignier Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Poisets 1er Cru

(13% natural alcohol, from a crop down 50% from normal, as the Ligniers eliminated a lot of fruit due to mildew; the Ligniers purchased this parcel in 2010): Very ripe but slightly diffuse aromas of black fruits and menthol. Rich and concentrated, showing a creamy texture to its flavors of black fruits and violet. Has enough acidity and firm tannins to give shape to the finish. But not quite as pristine as the best 2012s at this address.

(the Ligniers bought these vines planted in the late 1940s with a friend in early 2010): Good deep red. Blackberry, licorice and spices on the nose. Nicely juicy and energetic, with a high pitch to the dark berry and spice flavors. Finishes with dusty tannins that coat the tongue. Production here was just 20 hectoliters per hectare, down from 38 in 2011, owing to mildew and a bit of hail, according to Laurent.

The 2012 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Poisets is a relatively recent addition to the range. Lignier purchased the parcel in 2010, and this is their third crop. Ferrous and savory notes provide the backdrop for the Poisets, an intense, driven wine with plenty of energy. Chalk, iron, olives, dried herbs and cherries take shape in the glass. The style is imposing and powerful, but at the same time, there is a lot going on in the glass.